Gunung Batur (Batur
Mt.)
The
Gunung Batur volcano has also given name to the largest lake on
Bali and to a village. The volcano is still active and the smoke
is constantly seeping out of the mountain which is located inside
a huge caldera. The top is 1.717 meter and had it's last eruption
in 1917 and 1926. The 1917 eruption killed about 1.000 people and
destroyed the Batur village on the southern slopes of the volcano.
The villagers continued to live there until 1926 when a new eruption
left the village completely in ruins, except the shrine inside the
temple. This was brought to a new place at the edge of the caldera
south of Kintamani, were the new Batur village were constructed.
These two villages has now practically grown together as one. The
Pura Ulun Danu temple was rebuilt here and is today one of the most
impressive on Bali. It is dedicated to the water goddess Dewi Danu
like the temple by the Bratan lake which is carrying the same name.
The Danau Batur lake is the largest on Bali, 7 km long and 2.5
km wide. The depth is between 60 and 70 meters. There is only underground
rivers floating out of the lake, on many places on Bali these surface
as holy springs. The most common access road is via the Penelokan
village southwest of the lake, from here the view over the caldera
and the lake is great. Here you can find several hotels and restaurants,
many visitors may call this a tourist trap. There is a narrow road
from the village down to the lake and the village Kedisan, where
you can rent a boat or continue to explore the area by car. It's
not possible to drive all the way around the lake.
Around the lake there are some villages with accommodation, the
largest is Toya Bungkah, also called Tirta (means water). Here you
can stop and take a bath in the sulfurous hot springs around the
town or climb the Batur mountain. The most unique village is by
no doubt Trunyan on the east side, a so-called Bali Aga village.
The people here are descendants of the pre-Hindu population who
lived on Bali before the Majapahit empire had to escape from East
Java to Bali (see Bali and Tenganan). The easiest way to come here
is by boat from Kedisan. Just north of Trunyan lays the village's
graveyard, Kuban. They don't bury or cremate their dead, after complicated
rituals they are left to decompose in open air, and the graveyard
is full of white bones and garbage, and maybe a fresh body.
Where there are mountains there has to be somebody who wants to
climb it, and Batur is one of the easiest to climb on Bali. As mentioned
you can start from Toya Bungkah where you can take the walk without
a guide, they try to charge you too much anyway. you must bargain
if you like to hire a guide. This walk may take about two hours,
as always it is best to start early in the morning before the sunrise.
If you stay in Kedisan you can start from Pura Jati, a little bit
south of Toya Bungkah. The easiest route is from the northeast where
the road goes up to about a 45 minutes walk from the top. At the
top it is popular to cook food in the hot springs, and of course
it is a lovely view from here, especially at sunrise.
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